Monday, 9 May 2011

!Lunes De Agua!

Lunes de Agua (literally: “Water Monday”) is a festival held every year on Monday after Easter. After the traditionally strict 40 days of Cuaresma (Lent) and Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week),  Lunes de Agua is a chance for citizens to celebrate the end of their sacrifice for lent.

The origins of Lunes de Agua date back to the 16th century. Along with the prestigious university, Salamanca also had prostitutes who hoping to eventually make it to the royal courts, practiced (so to speak) with the university students. Back in the 16th century, King Felipe II, who was known as a very serious and devout Catholic, was disgusted with the marginal activities taking place in Spain’s prominent academic hub, therefore ordered the prostitutes be banished from the city during the 40-day abstinence period of Lent, so that the men of Salamanca, could avoid the temptations of the sin of lust. From Ash Wednesday, the prostitutes were taken to Arrabal the bridge across the River Tormes. 

For 40 days, the girls would be confined to live on the other side of the river until Lunes de Aguas – the day they could return to the city. Citizens would gather to watch how the students set up huge welcoming parties by the riverbanks for the prostitutes, and enthusiastically assist the priest (who was in charge of the girls’ welfare during their exile) in crossing them over the river on flower-decorated boats. The rest of the day would be spent eating, drinking, and celebrating by the river, whose waters gave name to the event. Only the last part of the celebration, however, is the one that continues as tradition today.

Nowadays, friends and family meet at the riverbanks of Salamanca’s Río Tormes and any open space such as public parks or countryside to share what is essentially a huge picnic. It is a time when ‘Salmantinos’ relax, have fun, and eat the typical hornazo - a non sweet pastry pie filled with ham, sausage, bacon, cooked egg, and sometimes even chicken – which is sold in shops all over the city. Obviously I didn’t eat one of these, because I don’t eat meat, but one of our friends called Von Travis had one that his host family Mom made and said it was good! Most businesses also voluntarily close for the day in order to partake in this festivity. They appear to take any chance to shut up shop for the day in Spain.

After class, most of my friends and I went to the river for a picnic. There were so many people. It was a fun day! 




 

Saturday, 7 May 2011

Semana Santa

Semana Santa in Spain is the Christian tradition of Holy week. It is the last week of Lent and the week before Easter and it includes the religious holidays of Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday and Good Friday. It lasts from Palm Sunday until, but not including, Easter Sunday.  

My friend Kathryn came to visit me in Salamanca during Semana Santa, which had its upsides and downsides. Unfortunately for Kat, the weather in Spain was really miserable during Semana Santa and because it is a religious holiday, all the shops were closed. However, we did get to be tourists for the weekend and see  churches, some of the impressive processions held in Salamanca and of course the nightlife.

On Kats first day in Salamanca, we went to visit the big Cathedral in Salamanca called ‘Old Cathedral’. The architecture in Salamanca is bonita – beautiful!




Afterwards we had lunch nearby and I ordered in Spanish! I always find the culture when learning a language really interesting. It is not considered at all rude or ‘mal education’ when shouting a waiter over using ‘Oiga!’ (Listen).

 
We also had a coffee in Plaza Mejor and Kat tried to take ‘fotos’ in order to create a panoramic image – I have done my best! During the weekend, there was a book fair at Plaza Mejor also, to celebrate international book week,



We also saw plaza mejor at night, when it is all lit up.  Kat and I had a good night with all my friends from my accommodation ‘Pinzones’ and Kat took a picture “for the fridge” of everyone who lives in my flat.



We were also lucky enough to see some of the Semana Santa processions, the worshippers  here carry "pasos", lifelike wood or plaster sculptures of individual scenes of the events that happened between Jesus' arrest and his burial. They are carried through the streets by penitents dressed in long purple robes, often with pointed hats, followed by women in black carrying candles. These pasos are physically carried on the necks of costaleros (literally "sack men", because of the costal, a sack-like cloth that they wear over their neck, to soften the burden) as they can weigh up to five metric tonnes.


A common feature in Spain is the almost general usage of the nazareno or penitential robe for some of the participants in the processions. This garment consists in a tunic, a hood with conical tip (capirote) used to conceal the face of the wearer, and sometimes a cloak. The robes were widely used in the medieval period for penitents, who could demonstrate their penance while still masking their identity. (These robes majorly resemble the KKK and were apparently intentionally served as the basis for the uniform for members of the Ku Klux Klan in the United States; ironically a very anti-Catholic organization.) 



A brass band, marching band, a drum and bugle band accompany the group, playing funeral marches, religious hymns or "marchas" written for the occasion.


On Easter Sunday, events come to a head in Salamanca's stunning Plaza Mayor, with a reenactment of the resurrection from midday, along with much singing and dancing. We also saw an amazing brass band playing here.